Photo of the Day-a study in comparative culture values

A billboard in New York City

Which side are you on?

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New York Subway

I grew to be comfortable with the subway system in New York City pretty young and to this day have never taken the bus. The bus system is also mapped nicely and SHOULD be easy for me to use. It also offers the chance to see the shops and buildings along the route, although the street traffic slows down the trip. I just never have opted to take a bus.

A few things I noticed about the subway in New York last week compared to trips taken in earlier years—the system seemed cleaner, the feeling was one of safety and there were more air conditioned cars. 

Many stations have manned booths for ticket purchases but there are also kiosks in the wall that take cash and/or credit cards, offering single, round-trip and combination of tickets purchases. It was easy to purchase a card that gave us $20 of trips and then to supplement with single ticket purchases as we completed our trip there.

Subway stations have been getting renovated and some now have decor that relates to something in the vicinity. This was part of our “home station” decor near the Museum of Natural History.

Ever since I read the story about Joshua Bell playing his Stradivarius in the Washington Metro and being ignored, I try to take a few minutes to listen to subway musicians. Within a short time you can assess if they are worth paying attention to for a while and a small tip is a nice way to encourage them to continue sharing their art so others can enjoy.Ridership has been increasing and recently are now higher than highest levels established in 1950. Daily weekday ridership is over 5 million!!! Crowds, of course, depend on time of day and where your route is headed. This was during rush hour. It was NOT this crowded all the time and I often was able to get a seat when we entered the car.

In the past three years I have used subway systems in New York, Boston, London and Paris. All had their differences but all had easy to read maps that made route selection work well. Handicap accessibility is provided more often in the United States but even in New York not every station was accessible. The Subway website provides information about each station in the system.

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Exploring off the Beaten Track

Where do most visitors to a major city go?  Guidebooks, websites and travel agents are quick to suggest lists of “must see” places.  I am not pooh poohing those lists or those places.  But I want to suggest that not every place listed is going to be of interest to every tourist or traveler.

For example, when my sister, daughter and I planned a short visit to Paris, my sister said she wanted to see the Louvre. She had no idea of its size nor what it really offered but she knew EVERYONE goes there. I had to be pretty blunt and she finally got it when I asked “But do YOU ever go to art museums?” So, then she countered with an important consideration, “But it is Paris, and Paris IS art.” So I promised her another smaller museum or art galleries and her need for a Parisian art fix was addressed.

When I visit a large city, even a place where I have been before, I like to see how the people living there actually go on with their day to day life. Seeing the customs and habits of the residents is a tremendous way to get a flavor of a place. Perhaps this developed out of my job assignment back in 1981-1982 when I lived in Germany, traveling in a circuit of four cities over six months.  I could not truly play tourist, since I had to work (darn it!) and I was living in hotels, and then pensiones and privat zimmers. This gave me a feeling of living with the people and I found it was an easy way to learn the language and the lifestyle.

On that trip to Paris a few years ago I identified a private guide who provided two half-days tours of two neighborhoods. The man grew up in New York so I knew he not only would understand us in terms of our speaking language, but since my sister and I grew up in New Jersey, we would also speak a similar cultural language. His experience living in Paris provided the local language as well as numerous contacts that made our time with him enriched.

He has expanded his service back into New York and I knew for the past several years that Laurence Waltman offered similar tours in New York but until this recent trip I didn’t have the time to arrange to take one of his walks. EyePreferNewYork is a way to see an area of the Big Apple that most visitors never see and even most residents never discover.

Although Laurence usually arranges to meet later in the morning, he was amenable to adjust to fit my early bird attitude. I gave myself enough time to maneuver on the subway down to 34th Street and then walk a few blocks towards the Hudson River. He was waiting at the access point to the High Line. I posted about the High Line a few days ago, so I won’t explain it again, but say it was obvious that Laurence knew the history of the original rail system, knew how the area had been reclaimed and gave us a lot of information about the surrounding neighborhood both in its historic use as well as development in recent years.  This was not the boring when who what we often heard in high school history classes. Laurence’s technique brought the place to life and it was easy to envision the people involved.

When we came back down to street level we passed through the old meat packing area where redevelopment is ongoing. The City is encouraging that food related industries stay in the area to keep the historic theme. Gansevoort Street, originally named by Dutch settlers for their geese and poultry, now is a place of renovated meat processing plants into new shops and restaurants. The Chelsea Market, which once was the original home of the cookie company that grew to become Nabisco, now is home to a multitude of boutiques, shops and restaurants, all providing niche markets for food  Upper levels hold offices, including Food Network’s studios. Some nearby restaurants are managed by top chefs from the Network.

Graham needed to leave then for his meeting, but Laurence and I continued for another hour, walking through West Greenwich Village. I walked streets my parents made me promise to avoid in the 1970s when I was an impressionable (and disobedient) teenager such as Bleeker Street. There are numerous interesting shops there and the side streets have now well maintained and expensive renovated brownstone residences.

We walked through the edge of NYU into Washington Square and started up 5th Avenue. All the time Laurence was explaining the history of the area, its original use and how changes had been made that made improvements in the lifestyle of the area. One of my sisters lived near Washington Square for several years in the 1980s and I can attest that it seemed a lot cleaner now.

We ended our walk at Union Square where Laurence left me to explore the Wednesday Farmers’ Market. You can read about that on my WVFarm2u blog that I write for the Farm2u Collaborative here in West Virginia. It is heartening to see how people are eager to get good fresh farm food even in the city. More about it on the other blog!

So, basically, my morning was a tremendous introduction to a part of New York City that I had wandered a bit but had had NO idea of its history. Even reading in a tour guide does not give the essence of being in the spot and hearing the stories that a personal guide can give. Laurence and I communicated several times before my visit so he had an idea of my interests and tailored the tour to them. I feel very sure if you hired him and stated that you had a strong interest in some other area, he would be able to give you a customized tour of high quality also.

Laurence Waltman

laurencewaltman@mac.com

Tel. 917-797-5031

Posted in Architecture, Art and Artisans, Culture, Family Travel, France, High Value, Historic Interest, New York, Travel, Website to Explore | Tagged , , , , , , | 2 Comments

Alternative Vacation Housing

During our recent 2 night stay in New York City we rented an apartment on the West Side just off Central Park West. I wanted a neighborhood that would be close enough to where Graham had his meeting, easy access to the subway, and one that would provide interesting architecture to view as well as shops and restaurants. 

The apartment we rented was certainly not grand, but it was very very adequate with interesting exposed brick walls and a loft area.  One large room served as the bedroom with a couch and a desk; a ladder provided access to a loft. There was a very small kitchen and the bathroom was also pretty small.  It was on the second floor of a walk-up, a brownstone in a row of similar homes. The cost was perhaps $50 more than a tiny hotel room would have been, but much larger in size.

VBRO (Vacation Rental By Owner) is a website where people offer short(nightly) or longer term (weekly or monthly) furnished housing.  Rentals are available not only in the United States, Canada and Mexico, but in Europe and in many other nations in Asia, Africa, and South America.  There are other vacation home rental websites as well. HomeAway, Vacation Rentals, FlipKey are three others and home exchange programs for longer vacations can be found at LoveHomeSwap and Vacation Home Exchange.

Renting an apartment or house permits you privacy and space, typically much better than a motel, hotel or bed and breakfast room. The owner or their agent will meet you and show you around the place, answering questions about operation of any appliances, and can also give you information about the area, similar to an owner of a B&B.

The cost is similar to other lodging choices, providing the opportunity to find something within your budget. The fee includes the nighly rental, the typical taxes that any lodging charges and an additional cleaning fee. Some are refundable if you leave the place in good condition. Others are not.

We first used VBRO to rent a house in Oregon for two nights on a trip there a year ago.We had a two bedroom house with a living room, dining room, good size kitchen, office area with computer, modernized bathroom, and laundry area on the back screened porch. The owner came every morning to collect eggs and to let her free range chickens out for the day. Each evening she stopped back over to let the chickens back into their shed. We had a wonderful basket of colorful eggs each morning….who needs to dye Easter eggs with chickens like this?

Posted in Architecture, Family Travel, High Value, Lodging, New York, Oregon, Travel, Website to Explore | Tagged , , , , , | Leave a comment

Revisiting a Childhood Joy

My dad grew up in Brooklyn and we lived only 35 miles away from Manhattan, so we often made trips in for him to share some of New York City’s treasures with us.  One of my favorites was the American Museum of Natural History located at Central Park West at 79th Street . I got a chance to visit again last week and explored many of the halls.  For many people this is as close as they will get to travel, to see the way animals and people live around the world, or to see the skeletons of dinsoaurs.

The displays include animal life found around the world, including birds

~~~and insects, mammals-both living and long gone.

and even those found in the oceans.

Dioramas also depicted people living in other cultures, both current and in the past.

~~~~~~~~~~It is a magical place where early imaginations can soar and children of all ages can learn about the world around them. There is also a wonderful planetarium and many special short term exhibits.

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New York City’s High Line

Railroads started building tracks and spreading across the  eastern states in the mid 1830s and by the 1850s there was a massive train yard in Manhattan just east of the Hudson River between 30th and 43rd Streets. The island was criss-crossed with railroad tracks at the ground level and even with a rider on a horse warning pedestrian about approaching trains, accidents happened.

Finally, the industrial spur lines feeding the industries south of the rail yards were raised high above street level.  The High Line continued to provide train service into the 1950s, until many industries left Manhattan and trucking started to replace rail service for those that remained.  The elevated track system sat idle and slowly began to decay

The Hudson Rail Yard was the area under consideration if New York had won the Olympics for Summer 2012, but once that was lost, new concepts for redevelopment began to be considered. The High  Line was  planned for demolition.

Strong advocates pushed for turning the High Line into a linear park and the first of three segments was opened in 2009. The second segment which runs north to 34th Street opened in June 2011. A third section remains to be renovated.

It is a narrow curving park, following the tracks that serviced former industrial buildings. A team of landscapers keep the naturalized plants and flowers in peak health.

Evidence of the tracks remains to remind walkers of the history of the trail.  Seating areas in several areas provide gathering places as well as locations for movies and musical performances.

Formerly a predominantly industrial neighborhood, this area of the West Side also provided lower income housing. Now, however, there has been considerable investment in the area with people like designer Diane Von Furstenburg establishing offices.  New construction of office and residential towers has prompted the City to plan to extend one of the cross-town subway lines and discussion has started about construction of a new north-south subway along the west side once the economy improves.

New York, not only the City That Never Sleeps, but one that continually reinvents itself.

Posted in Architecture, Green, Historic Interest, New York, Spotlight, Travel, Urban | Tagged , , , , , , | 4 Comments

Photo of the Day-shop in New York City

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